The charming pre-alpine group of Piccole Dolomiti (Little Dolomites) keeps some pearls. Baffelan is one of these, an imposing and beautiful limestone tower located in the Sengio Alto Subgroup, the central chain of Little Dolomites. By means of the mighty shape, the height – 350 meters - the remarkable highlight and the steepness of its faces Baffelan represents the emblem of the whole range. The peak shows a wide and majestic East face overlooking the Strada del Re (King’s Road), a yellow South face and a steep North face; the West side on the contrary doesn’t show high walls and joins the Sengio Alto notched ridge. On this peak we can count numberless high class climbing routes on a “dolomia” of very good quality; in addition to the pre-existent classic and hystorical routes, some other new ones were climbed in last ten-years period.
L'affascinante gruppo prealpino delle Piccole Dolomiti racchiude alcune perle. Una di queste è il Baffelan, imponente e bella torre dall'aspdetto dolomitico situata nel sottogruppo Sengio Alto, la catena centrale delle Piccole Dolomiti. Per le sue forme maestose, la verticalità e l'altezza delle pareti - 350 metri - il Baffelan rappresenta l'emblema dell'intero gruppo delle Piccole Dolomiti. Si distinguono l'ampia e maestosa parete Est che domina la Strada del Re, una parete Sud giallastra e una ripida parete nord; il versante Ovest invece non ha pareti cospicue e si unisce al crinale dentellato del Sengio Alto. Su questa cima si contano innumerevoli vie di arrampicata d'alta classe su una "dolomia" di ottima qualità; si aggiungono alle vie preesistenti classiche e storiche, diverse altre aperte nell'ultimo decennio.
There are two different possibilities to approach Baffelan:
1 – From SE side (Vicenza province): follow A4 Motorway, exit Montecchio Maggiore and take the road to Valdagno, Recoaro and Passo di Campogrosso (47 km. from Montecchio Maggiore); some hundred meters before getting to Campogrosso Pass follow the King’s Road on the right and park the car near the bar closing the road. The walking approach if coming from SE side is quite faster then the next one.
2 – From NW side (Trento province): follow A22 Autobrennero Motoway, exit Rovereto and take the SS46 rising inside Vallarsa; after the interesting Eremo di San Colombano, the road is rising across some small villages like Valmorbia, Anghebeni and Raoxi and at least is reaching Pian delle Fugazze m. 1162 (km. 27 from Rovereto). From the pass, situated on the border between Trento and Vicenza provinces, follow for a few meters the road towards Vicenza and sudden leave it, turning to right on the King’s Road (Strada del Re, an old road suitable for vehicles only for some kilometers) leading to Malga Cornetto; at the fork with the road to Pasubio Military Sanctuary carry on along the main road and where the road is closed by a bar park the car in a little pull-out.
Walking access From Passo Campogrosso - Follow the King’s Road, skirting the East faces of the Sengio Alto, for few hundreds of meters and park the car near the bar which closes the road. After reaching Malga Baffelan follow the trail toward the E face (20 min.)
From Pian delle Fugazze - From the little pull-out near the bar which closes the King’s road, follow the road by walking; where the road is destroyed a steep trail crosses the old landslide and leads to the final section of the King's road. Follow it to a hairpin below the peak: a short trail starting from the hairpin leads below the East face (50 min).
First summit ascent: Giuseppe Bolfe and pals on June 24th 1877 along the West standard route
- Via Soldà IV, 180 m.
- Via Casara III, IV, 300 m.
- Via N. Soldà
- Via Compagnia
- I Segreti del Baffelan IV, V, VI-, 400 m.
- Ceneri nel Vento VI, VII, VIII+ (A0), 370 m.
- Via del Piacere V, V+, a single move grading VI, 350 m.
- Via Boschetti-Zaltron
- Alpinismo Radicale VIII-, A1 (VII obbl.), 345 m
- Via Carugati III+, a single move grading IV, 330 m.
- Via Carlesso IV, V, a single move grading V+, 290 m.
- Via Tranquillo e Placido VI, VI+, VII (A0), 280 m.
- Superbaffelan V, VI, VI+, 270 m.
- Soldà Pillar IV, V-, 250 m.
- Via Thiene IV, V, VI+, VII-, 170 m.
- Via Vicenza III+, IV-, 170 m.
- Via Verona III+, IV-, 170 m.
- Via Bentornato IV, V, VI, 220 m.
- Via Ferrara IV, V, A1 170 m.
Baffelan Normal Route from West side
An easy and short scramble on good rock starting from Baffelan Col and leading to the beautiful and panoramic summit.
Approach: from Campogroisso
Report : take the King’s Road and follow the trail toward Malga Baffelan, then head towards the East face and reach on the right a built stone-wall. Climb the rocks on the left of the wall (iron’s chain) and enter the Boale del Baffelan, following a steep trail leading to the Baffelan Col (junction, signs). Turn to left (South) and follow the Arroccamento path to the Sella del Baffelan. From here a short scramble up easy rocks (I, II) leads to the summit cross (1 and a half hour from the King’s Road).
Little Dolomites shows a local micro-climate due to the high contrast between NW side, colder and dry, and SE side, warmer and wet: this situation is the cause, especially in the summer time, of frequent fogs along the East sides. In Spring we can observe a wonderful flowering of many species, some of which autocthon.
Fall is a wonderful season to climb and hike, in reason of the presence of a mixed wood, surroundings the Sengio Alto Subgroup, giving an amazing look to the landscape.
This is an extraordinary old military path, winding between the peaks of Sengio Alto Subgroup and crossing it from Malga Cornetto m. 1220 to Toni Giuriolo Hut at Campogrosso Pass m. 1456. The path was realized by the Italian Military Engineers Corp during the First World War.
- Rifugio Toni Giuriolo m. 1456 - Passo Campogrosso m. 1456 - Phone +39044575030
- Rifugio Alla Guardia Phone +39044575257
On PIAN DELLE FUGAZZE:
- Rifugio Balasso m. 983 - Valli del Pasubio (Vicenza)
- Alberghi Pian delle Fugazze m. 1163 s.l.m. - Passo Pian delle Fugazze, Vallarsa (Trento)
There are no particular restrictions in climbing and hiking. Cars are not allowed on the road of Settefontane, running on the North side of Sengio Alto and joining Passo Pian delle Fugazze with Passo di Campogrosso.
Best season goes from May to October.
Piccole Dolomiti e dintorni - Arrampicate scelte" by Guido Casarotto - Un updated complete selection of climbing routes in Piccole Dolomiti, Ed. Cierre 2015
“Piccole Dolomiti – Pasubio” by Gianni Pieropan - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI
“Arrampicate nelle Piccole Dolomiti” by Guido Casarotto
“A un passo dal cielo” di Arturo Franco Castagna – Alpguide Antersass