Baffelan

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Vicenza/Trento, Italy, Europe
County:
Veneto, Trentino
Activities:
Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Scrambling
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall
Elevation:
5883 ft / 1793 m
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Page By:
Baffelan
Created On: Sep 18, 2012
Last Edited On: Mar 19, 2018

Overview


Baffelan 1793 m


Fall dressing woods
Fall dressing woods


The charming pre-alpine group of Piccole Dolomiti (Little Dolomites) keeps some pearls. Baffelan is one of these, an imposing and beautiful limestone tower located in the Sengio Alto Subgroup, the central chain of Little Dolomites. By means of the mighty shape, the height – 350 meters - the remarkable highlight and the steepness of its faces Baffelan represents the emblem of the whole range. The peak shows a wide and majestic East face overlooking the Strada del Re (King’s Road), a yellow South face and a steep North face; the West side on the contrary doesn’t show high walls and joins the Sengio Alto notched ridge. On this peak we can count numberless high class climbing routes on a “dolomia” of very good quality; in addition to the pre-existent classic and hystorical routes, some other new ones were climbed in last ten-years period.

Sundown light over Baffelan
Sundown light over Baffelan

Getting There

Road access

There are two different possibilities to approach Baffelan:

1 – From SE side (Vicenza province): follow A4 Motorway, exit Montecchio Maggiore and take the road to Valdagno, Recoaro and Passo di Campogrosso (47 km. from Montecchio Maggiore); some hundred meters before getting to Campogrosso Pass follow the King’s Road on the right and park the car near the bar closing the road. The walking approach if coming from SE side is quite faster then the next one.

Baffelan tearing the clouds
Baffelan tearing the clouds
Baffelan
Baffelan in winter from Campogrosso












2 – From NW side (Trento province): follow A22 Autobrennero Motoway, exit Rovereto and take the SS46 rising inside Vallarsa; after the interesting Eremo di San Colombano, the road is rising across some small villages like Valmorbia, Anghebeni and Raoxi and at least is reaching Pian delle Fugazze m. 1162 (km. 27 from Rovereto). From the pass, situated on the border between Trento and Vicenza provinces, follow for a few meters the road towards Vicenza and sudden leave it, turning to right on the King’s Road (Strada del Re, an old road suitable for vehicles only for some kilometers) leading to Malga Cornetto; at the fork with the road to Pasubio Military Sanctuary carry on along the main road and where the road is closed by a bar park the car in a little pull-out.

The 8th century ancient San Colombano hermitage
The ancient San Colombano hermitage


Walking access

From Passo Campogrosso - Follow the King’s Road, skirting the East faces of the Sengio Alto, for few hundreds of meters and park the car near the bar which closes the road. After reaching Malga Baffelan follow the trail toward the E face (20 min.)

From Pian delle Fugazze - From the little pull-out near the bar which closes the King’s road, follow the road by walking; where the road is destroyed a steep trail crosses the old landslide and leads to the final section of the King's road. Follow it to a hairpin below the peak: a short trail starting from the hairpin leads below the East face (50 min).

History

First summit ascent: Giuseppe Bolfe and pals on June 24th 1877 along the West standard route

All the routes on Baffelan

Beautiful corner on Soldà Pillar, Baffelan
Beautiful corner on Pilastro Soldà

On Soldà Pillar
Soldà














South face

- Via Soldà IV, 180 m.
- Via Casara III, IV, 300 m.

East Face

- Via N. Soldà
- Via Compagnia
- I Segreti del Baffelan IV, V, VI-, 400 m.
- Sem
- Via Ceneri nel Vento VI, VII, VIII+ (A0), 370 m.
- Via del Piacere V, V+, a single move grading VI, 350 m.
- Via Boschetti-Zaltron
- Alpinismo Radicale
- Via Carugati III+, a single move grading IV, 330 m.
- Via Carlesso IV, V, a single move grading V+, 290 m.

Baffelan East face
Baffelan East face
Baffelan from Dente Rotto
Baffelan from Dente Rotto










North-East Ridge

- Via Tranquillo e Placido VI, VII, 280 m.

North-East face

- Superbaffelan V, VI, VII, 270 m.
- Soldà Pillar IV, V-, 250 m.

Soldà NE Pillar topo

North face

- Via Thiene IV, V, VI+, VII-, 170 m.
- Via Vicenza III+, IV-, 170 m.
- Via Verona III+, IV-, 170 m.
- Via Bentornato IV, V, VI, 220 m.
- Via Ferrara IV, V, A1 170 m.

Baffelan Normal Route from West side

Baffelan Normal Route from West side

An easy and short scramble on good rock starting from Baffelan Col and leading to the beautiful and panoramic summit.

Baffelan summit view
Summit view
Baffelan seen from the King' s Road
Baffelan seen from the King' s Road










Approach: from the King’s Road follow the trail toward Malga Baffelan, then head towards East face and reach on the right a stone-wall; climb the rocks on the left of the wall (iron’s chain) and enter Boale del Baffelan, following the steep trail leading to the Baffelan Col (junction, signs). Turn to left (South) and follow the Arroccamento path to the Baffelan Saddle.
From here a short scramble up easy rocks (I, II) leads to the summit cross (1 and a half hour from the King’s Road).

Climate and nature

Gentiana Germanica, Little Dolomites
Gentiana Germanica, Little Dolomites
Physoplexis comosa (Raponzolo di roccia), Little Dolomites
Physoplexis comosa (Raponzolo di roccia), Little Dolomites















Little Dolomites shows a local micro-climate due to the high contrast between NW side, colder and dry, and SE side, warmer and wet: this situation is the cause, especially in the summer time, of frequent fogs along the East sides. In Spring we can observe a wonderful flowering of many species, some of which autocthon.

Dianthus Pavonius (Peacock-eye Pink), Little Dolomites
Dianthus Pavonius (Peacock-eye Pink), Little Dolomites
A characteristic Little Dolomites Pino Mugo (Dwarf Pine)
A characteristic Little Dolomites Pino Mugo (Dwarf Pine)










Fall is a wonderful season to climb and hike, in reason of the presence of a mixed wood, surroundings the Sengio Alto Subgroup, giving an amazing look to the landscape.

The Arroccamento Path

Baffelan N face from Sentiero d'Arroccamento
Baffelan N face from Sentiero d'Arroccamento
Sengio Alto map

















This is an extraordinary old military path, winding between the peaks of Sengio Alto Subgroup and crossing it from Malga Cornetto m. 1220 to Toni Giuriolo Hut at Campogrosso Pass m. 1456. The path was realized by the Italian Military Engineers Corp during the First World War.

Where to stay

On CAMPOGROSSO:

- Rifugio Toni Giuriolo m. 1456 - Passo Campogrosso m. 1456 - Phone +39044575030

- Rifugio Alla Guardia Phone +39044575257

On PIAN DELLE FUGAZZE:

- Rifugio Balasso m. 983 - Valli del Pasubio (Vicenza)

- Alberghi Pian delle Fugazze m. 1163 s.l.m. - Passo Pian delle Fugazze, Vallarsa (Trento)

Red Tape

Baffelan framed by Laburnum
Baffelan framed by Laburnum

There are no particular restrictions in climbing and hiking. Cars are not allowed on the road of Settefontane, running on the North side of Sengio Alto and joining Passo Pian delle Fugazze with Passo di Campogrosso.

When to climb

Best season goes from May to October.

Meteo

METEO TRENTINO

DOLOMITI METEO

Guidebooks and maps

Piccole Dolomiti e dintorni new climbing guidebook
New
Little Dolomites Guidebook
Guidebook A un passo dal cielo
Piccole Dolomiti Guidebook

- Guidebooks"

Piccole Dolomiti e dintorni - Arrampicate scelte" by Guido Casarotto - Un updated complete selection of climbing routes in Piccole Dolomiti, Ed. Cierre 2015 

“Piccole Dolomiti – Pasubio” by Gianni Pieropan - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI

“Arrampicate nelle Piccole Dolomiti” by Guido Casarotto

“A un passo dal cielo” di Arturo Franco Castagna – Alpguide Antersass