Guglia G.E.I.

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Vicenza, Italy, Europe
County:
Veneto
Activities:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall
Elevation:
5791 ft / 1765 m
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84.82% Score
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Guglia G.E.I.
Created On: Mar 12, 2015
Last Edited On: Mar 3, 2018

Overview

Guglia G.E.I. m 1765

Guglia G.E.I. m 1765 is a fine spire located in the subgroup of Fumante, including several pinnacles and limestone towers and belonging to the larger group of Carega, Little Dolomites. It was the first summit to be climbed in the year 1920 inside the Fumante Subgroup. The name G.E.I. is due to the first summiters, who dedicated the summit to the Club of Giovani Esploratori Italiani (Italian Young Explorers). It's a very popular summit in reason of the presence of different climbing routes on good rock and the quick approach from Passo Campogrosso. A narrow fork separates Guglia G.E.I. from the nearby Guglia Negrin, whose ascent can be matched to that of the Guglia G.E.I. Both peaks are the first part of the longer Guglie della Scala crossing, an interesting "course" on Guglie del Fumante.

Guglie del Fumante annotated panorama
Guglie del Fumante from the approach path

Getting There

Guglia G.E.I. is quickly approachable from Passo di Campogrosso m. 1446, a col located in Little Dolomites, connecting the Vallarsa Valley (province of Trento) and the Agno Valley (province of Vicenza). It is accessible by car only coming from the Vicenza side, passing through the town of Recoaro Terme; in fact cars are not allowed on the road coming from Pian delle Fugazze (Trento side). This wide pass separates the Carega group from the Sengio Alto chain. On the Vicenza side is located Toni Giuriolo shelter, an excellent starting point to hike and climb in Piccole Dolomiti group.

Access to Campogrosso

- From A4 Motorway exit Montecchio Maggiore and follow the road to Valdagno, Recoaro and Passo di Campogrosso

Guglie della Scala seen from W
Guglie della Scala seen from W
Summer fogs wandering amongst the spires
Summer fogs wandering amongst the spires

Access to Guglia G.E.I. from Passo di Campogrosso

From Campogrosso Pass take the good path heading to Guglie del Fumante (signpost 7 and E5) and keep it, reaching the fork on Sella del Rotolon. Take the path n. 6 crossing meadows and war-trenches and getting to Piazzale SUCAI, an amphitheater to the East of Guglie del Fumante. Head to the thin spire named Milite, just below Guglia G.E.I. North East Face – 30 minutes from the pass

The Milite, a tiny spire below Guglia G.E.I.
The Milite, a tiny spire below Guglia G.E.I.
Approaching the spires
Approaching the spires

Routes

People climbing Guglia G.E.I.
People climbing Guglia G.E.I.
Last meters before the summit on route Renata, Guglia G.E.I.
Last meters before the summit on route Renata, Guglia G.E.I.


















The best routes on North-East wall, facing towards Campogrosso, are from left to right:

* Via Amarcord IV, V+, VI+ (a short section), 155 m. - Less advisable than the following two ones
* Via Renata IV, V+, VI (a short section), 135 m. - A valid alternative to the classic Menato-Pamato, definitely more difficult
* Via Diretta Menato-Pamato III, III+, 130 m. - The classic route of the spire, interesting and varied. Very frequented. A harder direct variant (V) is possible in the last length

On the W side the Normal route runs. It's now followed only as the descent route from the summit.

Red Tape

Guglia G.E.I. from the summit of Soglio Sandri-Menti
Guglia G.E.I. from the summit of Soglio Sandri-Menti

No permits required, no fees. Guglia G.E.I. is situated in Piccole Dolomiti Natural Park.

Huts

Toni Giuriolo Hut and Carega Group in the background
Rifugio Toni Giuriolo and Carega

- Rifugio Toni Giuriolo m. 1456 - Passo Campogrosso m. 1456 - Phone +39044575030

- Rifugio Alla Guardia Phone +39044575257

When to climb

The best seasons to climb and hike goes from May to October-November

Meteo

Dolomiti Meteo

Meteo Trentino

Guidebooks and maps

Guidebooks

Piccole Dolomiti e dintorni new climbing guidebook
Little Dolomites Guidebook
Piccole Dolomiti Guidebook

"Piccole Dolomiti e dintorni - Arrampicate scelte" by Guido Casarotto - An updated and complete selection of the best climbing routes in Little Dolomites, Ed. Cierre 2015

“Piccole Dolomiti – Pasubio” by Gianni Pieropan - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI

“Arrampicate nelle Piccole Dolomiti” by Guido Casarotto

Maps

Pasubio-Carega 1:25.000