Guglia G.E.I. 1765 m is a fine spire located in the subgroup of Fumante, including several pinnacles and limestone towers and belonging to the larger group of Carega, Piccole Dolomiti (Little Dolomites). It was the first summit to be climbed in the year 1920 inside the Fumante Subgroup. The name G.E.I. is due to the first summiters, who dedicated the summit to the Club of Giovani Esploratori Italiani (Italian Young Explorers). It's a very popular summit in reason of the presence of different climbing routes on good rock and the quick approach from Passo Campogrosso. A narrow saddle separates Guglia G.E.I. from the nearby Guglia Negrin, whose ascent can be matched to that of the Guglia G.E.I. Both peaks are the first part of the longer Guglie della Scala crossing, an interesting "course" on Guglie del Fumante.
Guglia G.E.I. is quickly approachable from Passo di Campogrosso m. 1446, a wide pass located in the Little Dolomites, connecting the Vallarsa Valley (province of Trento) and the Agno Valley (province of Vicenza). It is accessible by car only coming from the Vicenza side, passing through the town of Recoaro Terme; in fact cars are not allowed on the road coming from Pian delle Fugazze (Trento side). Passo di Campogrosso separates the Carega group from the Sengio Alto chain. On the Vicenza side is located the Refuge Toni Giuriolo, an excellent starting point to hike and climb in Piccole Dolomiti group.
Access to Campogrosso
- From A4 Motorway exit Montecchio Maggiore and follow the road to Valdagno, Recoaro and Passo di Campogrosso
Access to Guglia G.E.I. from Passo di Campogrosso
From Passo di Campogrosso take the good path heading to Guglie del Fumante (signpost 7 and E5) and keep it, reaching the fork on Sella del Rotolon. Take the path n. 6 crossing meadows and war-trenches and getting to Piazzale SUCAI, an amphitheater located to the East of Guglie del Fumante. Head to the thin spire named Milite, just below Guglia G.E.I. North East Face – 30 minutes from the pass
The best routes on North-East wall, facing towards Campogrosso, starting from left to right:
* Via Amarcord IV, V+, VI+ (a short section), 155 m. - Less advisable than the following two ones
* Via Renata IV, V+, VI (a short section), 135 m. - A worthwhile alternative to the classic Menato-Pamato, definitely more difficult
* Via Diretta Menato-Pamato III, III+, 130 m. - The classic route of the spire, interesting and varied. Very attended. A harder direct variant (V) is possible in the last length
On the W side it runs the Normal route. Nowaday it's exclusively attented as the descent route from the summit.
No permits required, no fees. Guglia G.E.I. is situated in Piccole Dolomiti Natural Park.
- Rifugio Toni Giuriolo m. 1456 - Passo Campogrosso m. 1456 - Phone +39044575030
- Rifugio Alla Guardia Phone +39044575257
The best seasons to climb and hike goes from May to October-November
"Piccole Dolomiti e dintorni - Arrampicate scelte" by Guido Casarotto - An updated and complete selection of the best climbing routes in Little Dolomites, Ed. Cierre 2015
“Piccole Dolomiti – Pasubio” by Gianni Pieropan - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI
“Arrampicate nelle Piccole Dolomiti” by Guido Casarotto