Cresta Alta, Guglie del Fumante

Overview

Cresta Alta 1930 m

Cresta Alta is a fine rocky castle located in the Subgroup of Fumante, including several pinnacles and limestone spiers, and belonging to the larger group of Carega, Piccole Dolomiti (Little Dolomites). Some of these spiers, facing the "Giaron della Scala", can be connected through an interesting climbing ride, the "Cavalcata delle Guglie della Scala".

This climbing route starts from the famous Guglia G.E.I. and ends on the Cresta Alta 1930 m. The other summits reached by means of the climb are the Guglia Negrin 1782 m and the Guglia Schio 1830 m.

A narrow fork separates Guglia G.E.I. from the nearby Guglia Negrin, whose ascent can be matched to that of the Guglia G.E.I. Both peaks are the first part of the longer Guglie della Scala crossing, an interesting "course" on Guglie del Fumante.

Getting There

The starting point of the "Guglie della Scala" crossing is quickly approachable from Passo di Campogrosso m. 1446, a col located in Little Dolomites, connecting the Vallarsa Valley (Trento province) and the Agno Valley (Vicenza province). The col is accessible by car only coming from the Vicenza side, passing through the town of Recoaro Terme; in fact cars are not allowed on the road coming from Pian delle Fugazze (Trento side). This wide pass separates the Carega group from the Sengio Alto chain. On the Vicenza side is located the refuge Toni Giuriolo, an excellent starting point to hike and climb in this Sector of the Piccole Dolomiti group.

Access to Campogrosso

- From A4 Motorway exit Montecchio Maggiore and follow the road to Valdagno, Recoaro and Passo di Campogrosso

Access to Guglia G.E.I. from Passo di Campogrosso

From Passo di Campogrosso take the good path heading to Guglie del Fumante (signpost 7 and E5) and keep it, reaching the fork on Sella del Rotolon. Take the path n. 6 crossing meadows and war-trenches and getting to Piazzale SUCAI, an amphitheater to the East of Guglie del Fumante. Head to the thin spire named Milite, just below Guglia G.E.I. North East Face – 30 minutes from Campogrosso

Route: Cavalcata delle Guglie della Scala

Cavalcata delle Guglie della Scala (Guglie della Scala crossing) - UIAA scale

The Guglia G.E.I. is the first spire to be summited, choosing one of these three routes running on the NE face, the wall facing the little pinnacle called "Il Milite":

- Diretta Menato-Pamato III, III+, 5 pitches, 130 m - O. Menato, P. Pamato 1932 - Amongst the three routes is the one on the right, it starts right in front of the characteristic pinnacle. The classic route of the spire, interesting and varied on good rock. Very frequented.

- Via Renata IV, V+, VI (a short section), 5 pitches, 135 m. - F. Spanevello, F. Busato, P. Moranduzzi 1993 - An available and excellent alternative to the classic Menato-Pamato, definitely more difficult. It starts a few meters to the left of the previous route.

- Via Amarcord IV, V+, VI+ (a short section), 6 pitches, 155 m. - F. Spanevello, F. Busato 1992 - On the left of the NE face; because of lower rock's quality, it's less advisable than the previous two routes.

Same approach, whatever is the choice: from Campogrosso Pass take the good path heading to Guglie del Fumante (signpost 7 and E5) and keep it, reaching the fork on Sella del Rotolon. Take the path n. 6 crossing meadows and war-trenches and getting to Piazzale SUCAI, an amphitheater to the East of Guglie del Fumante. Head to the thin spire named Milite, just below and in front of Guglia G.E.I. North East Face – 30 minutes from the pass

Once you reach the top of the spire, an equipped abseil on the opposite side of the climb up leads to the saddle between Guglia G.E.I. and Guglia Negrin. It follows the route Casara, a short climb on excellent rock (1 pitch, IV) on the NE face of Guglia Negrin. 

Once you reach the top of this second spire, another equipped abseil leads to the base. From here a short walk leads to the base of the NO wall of the Guglia Schio, which is climbed on a IV grade UIAA route on mediocre rock.  The base is reached rapping again (2 abseils), from where a new walk transfer leads to the base of the NW Ridge of the Cresta Alta along the route Edelweiss Express, which reserves the most demanding stretch of the climb.

- Edelweiss Express
Difficulty: VI+ and VIII- or A0
First ascent: A. Carretta, L. Sgreva 2004

- A fine climb on good rock, the difficulties of the crux pitch are not compulsory

L1 - Short pitch to get of an obvious dihedral-crack  L2 - Climb the beautiful crack L3 - Traverse left then on easier ground to the stance below the crux pitch. L4 - Up the large grey slab very hard at the start (VIII in free climbing, alternatively A0), then easier L5 - A last pitch grading V leads to the summit

Descent: abseiling (3 abseils), then reaching the "Giaron della Scala" path, joining the path n. 7 which, after a tunnel, leads to the base of Guglia G.E.I.

Red Tape

No permits required, no fees.

When to Climb

The best seasons to climb and hike goes from May to October-November

Where to stay

- Rifugio Toni Giuriolo m. 1456 - Passo Campogrosso m. 1456 - Phone +39044575030

- Rifugio Alla Guardia Phone +39044575257

Meteo

Dolomiti Meteo

Guidebooks and maps

"Piccole Dolomiti e dintorni - Arrampicate scelte"  Guido Casarotto - An updated and complete selection of the best climbing routes in Little Dolomites, Ed. Cierre 2015
“Piccole Dolomiti – Pasubio” Gianni Pieropan - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI
“Arrampicate nelle Piccole Dolomiti”  Guido Casarotto

Map:  "Pasubio-Piccole Dolomiti" 4LAND  sheet 118 1:25.000