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Mountain/Rock |
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45.74079°N / 11.17857°E |
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Veneto |
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Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Scrambling |
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Spring, Summer, Fall |
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5702 ft / 1738 m |
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This slender odd tower of dolomia is the finest one of a small group of three, all named Apostoli (Apostles) in reason of their resemblance and closeness, lying in the middle part of the Sengio Alto Subgroup, the central sector of Piccole Dolomiti (Little Dolomites). Primo Apostolo (First Apostle), as its name says, is the first tower on the left when you’re looking to the Apostoli from South. The Boale del Baffelan to the South, separating Primo Apostolo from Baffelan, together with another steep gully to the North, give to Primo Apostolo a powerful shape and a great detachment from the surroundings peaks. The mighty spur facing East and overlooking the Strada del Re (King’s Road) is vertical and very attractive and in reason of this fact concentrates to itself the main climbing interests. As the majority of the peaks belonging to the Sengio Alto subgroup, the summit of Primo Apostolo is joined to the Sengio Alto by a short scramble heading to West and getting to the Arroccamento Path, a beautiful trail running across all the subgroup. The Western face of Primo Apostolo is shorter but steep and compact, overlooking the Meadows of Settefontane. On Primo Apostolo we count numberless high class climbing routes on very good quality “dolomia”; in addition to the pre-existent classic and hystorical routes, some others new ones were climbed in last ten-years period.
The shortest approach is from Passo di Campogrosso.
Road access to Passo di Campogrosso
- From SW side (Vicenza province): follow A4 Motorway, exit Montecchio Maggiore and take the road to Valdagno, Recoaro and Passo di Campogrosso (47 km. from Montecchio Maggiore); some hundred meters before getting to Passo di Campogrosso follow the Strada del Re (King’s Road) on the right and park the car near the bar closing the road. Another option is going towards Passo di Campogrosso by walking from Malga Cornetto, if you’re coming by road from the NE side (Rovereto)
- from NE side (Trento province): follow A22 Autobrennero Motoway, exit Rovereto and take the SS46 rising inside Vallarsa; after the interesting Eremo di San Colombano, the road is rising across some small villages like Valmorbia, Anghebeni and Raoxi and at least is reaching Pian delle Fugazze m. 1162 (km. 27 from Rovereto). From the pass, situated on the border between Trento and Vicenza provinces, follow for a few meters the road towards Vicenza and sudden leave it, turning to right on the King’s Road (Strada del Re, an old road suitable for vehicles only for some kilometers) leading to Malga Cornetto; at the fork with the road to Pasubio Military Sanctuary carry on along the main road and where the road is closed by a bar park the car in a little pull-out.
Walking access to E face, NE face and Normal route
- From Campogrosso: from the bar on the King’s Road continue on the road, skirting the East faces of the Sengio Alto, reaching the meadows of Malga Baffelan; follow the trail toward left heading to the Boale del Baffelan, enter it, reaching an hand-made stone wall (20 min.)
- From Pian delle Fugazze: from the little pull-out near the bar which closes the King’s road, follow the road by walking; where the road is destroyed a suspended bridge leads to the final section of the road. Follow it to a hairpin below the peak: a short trail starting from the hairpin leads below the East face (50 min).
- Primo Apostolo Normal Route
An easy and short scramble starting from Malga Baffelan and rising to the Colle del Baffelan 1661 m, then getting the summit via the Arroccamento Path.
Report: from the Strada del Re (King’s Road) follow the trail toward Malga Baffelan, then head to left getting the Boale del Baffelan (iron chain) towards the Colle del Baffelan 1661 m (junction, signs), a saddle lying on Sentiero di Arroccamento. From the saddle follow towards right (North) the Sentiero di Arroccamento, getting to the saddle between Primo and Secondo Apostolo; a short scramble to the summit.
- Spigolo Faccio IV, V, m. 170 m. Fine classic route on very good rock, the most attended on the peak - Via Arcobaleno IV, V, VI+ m. 170
- Via Serenella Stenghel IV, V+, VI+, VII- (A0) m. 160
- Via Uno di Noi VII, VIII- m. 160
- Via Sergio e Carla IV, V, VI m. 150
- Via Dagmy IV, V+, a short move grading VI+ (or A0) 150 m
- Viaggio in Paradiso 6a+ (5c obbl.), 145 m
Descent: following the Normal route - From the summit climb over the first prominence, cross a slab and then follow westward the ridge with little pines towards the Arroccamento path. Once reached the Sentiero di Arroccamento, follow it to the left, go through two tunnels then and go down along the Boale Baffelan until the retaining wall (iron chain on the right) and then to the base of the wall.
No particulary restrictions in climbing and hiking. Cars are not allowed on the North side road from Pian delle Fugazze to Passo di Campogrosso.
It's an amazing old military path, winding between the peaks of Sengio Alto Subgroup and crossing it from Malga Cornetto m. 1220 to the Rifugio Toni Giuriolo on Passo di Campogrosso 1456 m. This beautiful path was realized by the Italian Military Engineers Corp during the WWI and can be followed in both the two walking directions: from South (Rif. Giuriolo) to North (Malga Cornetto) and vice versa.
Starting points:
- Malga Cornetto m. 1220
- Rif. Toni Giuriolo on Passo di Campogrosso 1456 m
Best season goes from May to October
The Piccole Dolomiti shows a local micro-climate due to the high contrast between NW side, colder and dry, and SE side, warmer and wet: this situation is the cause, especially in summer time, of frequent fogs along the East sides.
- Rifugio Toni Giuriolo Passo di Campogrosso 1456 m Phone +39044575030
- Rifugio Alla Guardia Phone +39044575257
Guidebooks
"Piccole Dolomiti e dintorni - Arrampicate scelte" by Guido Casarotto - An updated and complete selection of the best climbing routes in Little Dolomites, Ed. Cierre 2015
“Piccole Dolomiti – Pasubio” by Gianni Pieropan - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI
“Arrampicate nelle Piccole Dolomiti” by Guido Casarotto
Maps
Pasubio-Carega 1:25.000