The peak Maupas is one of the most important of the massif Clarabides-Perdiguero-Gourg Blancs-Boum, in the north of spanish valley of Benasque and the south of french area of Luchon. This sector of the massif aligns some of the classic peaks over 3000 meters of the French valley of Lys and other great mountains in a spectacular ridge, from east to west: Gran Quayrat (3060m), Lézat (3107m), Crabioules (3116m), Maupas (3109m), Boum (3006m), Mall Barrat (2986m), Mall Plané (2947m), Mall Pintrat or Pico de Puerto Vielho (2842m), Sacroux (2668m), Salvaguardia (2738m) and others. The south face of this summits is know in the valley of Benasque just in front of Maladeta massif but the impression in the north side is more prominent since the valleys are found a lot further down.
Maupas, north face
The normal route of Maupas
it's from the French side across the refuge. Because the important slope (2000 meters) many mountaineers make a reservation in the little refuge of Maupas (2450m) to spend the night and they climb the peak in two days. It's the easiest route across the NW ridge and it cross the “mauvais pas” or “malpas” that give the name to the mountain. It mean “badly step” but really it's only a wall of I+ (F.sup.) between the small glacier and the ridge.
The Spanish route
is hardest. Across the valley of Remuñe (near of the Hotel of Benasque) we reach the bottom of the mountain and a rock climb of II+ (P.D. inf.) it’s necessary to entry between the brecha Maupas-Boum in the west of the peak. In the glacier we turn to get the normal route.
Two classic ridges of rock climb
exist in the peak:
-ridge East: from the Tussé de Remuñé (3041m), across the peaks Rabadá (3045) and Navarro (3043) in a very sharped and exposed ridge of P.D.sup.
-ridge Boum-Maupas, from the summit of some of both peaks, but generally in this direction with more difficults steps of III+ and IV-.
: approach to Luchon. From the west across Pau and Tarbes we reach the road to Bagnéres de Luchon. In Luchon we follow the little road to the ski-resort of Superbagnéres and we leave it in the signal “Vallée de Lis”. We’ll reach the parking of Aubergue de Lis (1100m).
: Benasque is reached from Huesca taking N-330 to Sabiñanigo and across Ainsa and Campo for the N-260.
It's a natural park in both sides with rules about conservation of nature and the camping.
The refuge of Maupas it's very little in it's advisable the reserve early if you want to use it from 15 June to 15 September. Out of the season the winter hut is available.
Refuge of Maupas
The camping it’s not allowed, it’s national park, but the refuge of Maupas
it’s a very good option (30 places, Tel: 05.61.44.21.60, out of France: 33 220.127.116.11.60. Opened from 15 June to 15 September).
The Aubuerge de Lis it’s opened from July to September but as well you had hotels and lodges in Luchon or the ski resort of Superbagnères.
, some pictures of our climb in june 2007.