Soglio d'Uderle 1600 m
Soglio d'Uderle is a mighty tower located to the left of Soglio Rosso; it's one of the finest climbing goal in the Pasubio Group, a fascinating pre-alpine range running along the border between Trento province on NE side and Vicenza province on SW side, close to Little Dolomites group. Mountains full of history, just because in these places it was fought the WWI. Today the majority, according with the late SOIUSA alpine and pre-alpine subdivision, agrees to consider the Little Dolomites and the Pasubio Group as a unique range. It is proposed the name "Vicentine Prealps", although the name is not quite accurate, as a part of this mountain range is located in the Trentino region.
On the stunning South East face of Soglio d'Uderle had been realized various high-class rock climbing, both trad and moderne, being the route Boschetti-Zaltron the best known and appreciated by climbers. It's a challenging and interesting classic route on very good rock, a long outing in a beautiful setting. Not to be missed!
The starting point to reach Soglio d'Uderle is Ponte Verde
Access from Rovereto side (NE side)
From Rovereto mt. 201 follow SS46 rising along the green valley named Vallarsa, getting to San Colombano, Valmorbia m 649, Anghebeni m. 632, Foxi m. 674, Raoxi m. 724 and finally Pian delle Fugazze Pass m. 1162 (km. 26 from Rovereto). From the pass follow the road to Vicenza, going down for some kilometers and reaching the place named Ponte Verde. From Ponte Verde leave the main road and turn to left, following the road to Colle Xomo. After about 1 km. turn to left and follow a gravel forest road (signpost "Val Fontana d'Oro) and park the car nearby a wide meadow
Access from Vicenza side (SW side)
From Vicenza follow SS46 to Schio mt. 209, rising along Val Leogra and reaching Valli del Pasubio mt. 342, S. Antonio mt. 567, lower Ponte Verde and upper Ponte Verde mt. 901. Turn to right following the narrow road to Colle Xomo. After about 1 km. turn to left and follow a gravel forest road (signpost "Val Fontana d'Oro") and park the car nearby a wide meadow.
Soglio d'Uderle S-E Ridge Via Boschetti-Zaltron report (UIAA scale)
Summit altitude: m. 1600
Difficulty: TD, V, VI-, VI UIAA
Equipment: belays equipped with cemented anchors, pegs along the pitches
Climbing length: 330 m
First ascent: M. Boschetti – F. Zaltron 1/2-5-1953
Starting point: forest road to Raspanche
Great historic route, one of the most advisable and frequently climbed classic routes of Vicentine Prealps. Magnificent line and challenging climbing on good quality rock; the fine starting variant and the upper one, realized by Balasso brothers, make the line of the route most direct and most sustained the climb. The setting is pre-alpine and remarkable.
Approach: From the parking lot continue along the dirt road, at a junction ignore the turnoff to right to Val Fontana d'Oro and continue to the junction with the path of Voro d'Uderle. Ignore the signpost to the Voro of Uderle and continue up to where the road is lost in a large shady glade (cairn). We go up the scree in the direction of the edge (other cairns) reaching the characteristic grassy socket. Starting point a bit on the right of the vertical edge on an easy wall which leads into the grassy hoof. 30 minutes from the car park.
L1-2 - Climb the rock wall, then slanting left along a grassy section (tracks) up to a first belay; the second pitch still continues leftwards, then rise vertically and then rightwards to a niche where belaying on a it will stop on eyebolt I, III, 100 m.
L3 - Brief traverse rightwards, overcome the edge and climb vertically for some meters, then reached a ring-peg, below the vertical of a stance with bolts, traverse right to a small terrace. Belay on eyebolt. 40 m III+, IV, 40 m.
L4 - Climb the entire overhanging grey dihedral. Pass rightwards a slab with cracks, then return to the left reaching a small pulpit near a yellowish dihedral. Belay on 4 pegs, V, V+, 30 m
L5 - Climb the yellow dihedral up to exit on a terrace. Belay on 4 pegs, V and IV, 20 m
L6 - Climb a vertical wall, continue along a crack just under an overhang, overcome the overhang, then exit toward left to the pulpit. Stop on a fixed anchor, V+, 40 m
L7 - Traverse to the left along a grassy ledge, getting a smooth slab that must be avoided towards right, then return to the left traversing again to a grassy a ledge, then beyond the edge to a stance on an eyebolt, II, IV+, 40 m
L8 - Climb vertically for a few meters, then briefly traverse right and again vertically along a crack exiting on a small shelf. Up
vertically on black rock to a stance on a pulpit. Belay on an eyebolt, V+, V and VI, 40 m
L9 - Climb the short yellow dihedral above, then to the right a narrow crack and another short yellow dihedral exiting on a terrace on the right. Belay on an eyebolt, V+, VI, 20 m
L10 - To the left of the stance along a yellow slab to gain a narrow frame. Follow it leftwards, almost to the limit of the edge, then up vertically in the direction of a roof, up to a stop with a carabiner, from which to perform a short slanting left "pendulum" to pass the edge, getting a terrace. Belay on an eyebolt, V, VI, A0, 30 m.
L11 - Traverse to the left 3-4 meters, overcome a first vertical wall and continue along small walls interspersed with turf, then vertically on the edge, reaching a stance. Belay on an eyebolt, IV, V, 40 m
L12 - Up the wall above the stance, then continue along a slab and some turf to a stop on a tree, V+, then II, 25 m
L13/14- Up the grassy slope at first slanting right, then directly
along a grassy and rocky gully, then traverse left under the thread of
the crest. Stop on an eyebolt, I, III, 100 m.
L15 - Pass a short hop and continue along the ridge overcoming a notch, then continue to a zone of boulders below the last rock pinnacle. Belay on boulders, summit book. I, III, 50 m
Descent - After reached the summit of the peak along the crest, we head to the S side and cross the slopes to reach the rocky notch of Bocchetta d'Uderle; with the help of an on-site chain downclimb for about twenty meters to the path running down Voro d'Uderle. We follow it very carefully (alpine trail), entering the gully and overcoming some little walls equipped with other fixed ropes, then we reach the edge of the woods. Follow entirely Eastward the horizontal ledge, reaching the scree below Campanile di Val Fontana d'Oro, which goes back to the approach path.
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- Via Il giardino con lo...stagno - VI, VII+, a move grading IX (or A0), 300 m. - Superb and very demanding moderne route in the middle of SE wall - First ascent: A. Micheletto, G. Pierantoni, R. Ferrari 1995
- Camino Carlesso V+, VI-, 260 m - First ascent: R. Carlesso, T. Casetta, A. Colbertaldo 4-6-1933 - Classic route following the big chimney cutting the SE face
- La Luna nel Pozzo VIII+ max (VII+ obbl.), 265 m. - Sustained and challenging route; even if a semi-sporting climb it's recommended the full mountaineering equipment - First ascent: Michele Guerrini in solo 23/28/29-9-2006
- Via Astrofisica X (or VIII and A0), 155 m - M. Guerrini from the top - Extremely challenging route
Some cams are useful, but not essential, in addition to the normal climbing gear
No particular restriction in climbing and hiking
Best season goes from May to October
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"Piccole Dolomiti e dintorni - Arrampicate scelte" by Guido Casarotto - An updated and complete selection of the best climbing routes in Little Dolomites, Ed. Cierre 2015
“Piccole Dolomiti – Pasubio” by Gianni Pieropan - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI
“Arrampicate nelle Piccole Dolomiti” by Guido Casarotto