Wyoming 13ers

Wyoming, United States, North America
Page Type Page Type: List
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Overview

The state of Wyoming has 35 ranked peaks over 13,000 feet; the vast majority (31) of these mountains are in the spectacular Wind River Range, and the others are located in the northern half of the state in the Teton (1), Absaroka (1), and Big Horn (2) ranges. Most of the 13ers are tightly bunched together and are located in the Gannett Peak (19), Downs Mountain (2), Fremont Peak North (4), and Fremont Peak South (5) quadrangles, which are adjacent to each other in the heart of the Winds.

Wind River Peak is located alone near the southern end of the Wind River Range. Many of these summits are remote and challenging technical climbs, and are climbed infrequently when compared to the 14ers in Colorado. In fact, as of 2020, only 5 people have publicly come out with completing the list. They are described in the list below.

 
View from Gannett Peak
View from Gannett Peak

A note on prominence

Note that due to prominence calculation differences between major peak databases, the WY 13ers list (as well as many other lists) may appear different depending on where you look. The authorative database for the WY 13ers is without a doubt the Lists of John one, which can be found here. John uses a more accurate method for calculating prominence by averaging between the contour line above a peaks key saddle and the one below from data shown on the official USGS quads. He also adds 20 feet to the highest closed contour for unnamed peaks without an elevation marked on the map. In this method, his averaging will provide the best chance for a full comprehensive list.

The Peakbagger site bases its lists using a much more restrictive "Clean Prominence" rule, meaning in order for a peak to be included on their list, the peak must have the required number of contour lines shown between the lowest contour above the peaks key saddle, and the highest closed contour at its summit. This method most certainly would omit many peaks that have a very high chance of having the required prominence, but since many peak elevations are not labelled on the maps, and virtually no saddle elevations are marked on the maps either, the only way to really build a full list when peaks hover around the prominence cutoff value is to use the averaging method John uses (which is the same method almost everyone in the peakbagging community uses). In the American Rocky Mountains as a whole, the required prominence cutoff to be considered its own peak is 300 feet.

The Peakbagger site is a major outlier here, so if you use their lists for your information, note that you will very likely not be climbing all the required peaks, as dictated normally by the local communities.

Thanks to John Kirk for uploading more of his fantastic pictures for this page, and to his Lists of John website for the elevation, prominence, and YDS numbers. Regarding the YDS difficulty ratings, note that these values on the list below will differ from Johns website because I have firsthand information based on my experience climbing all 35 of the peaks and I have rated the peaks based on what is very likely their easiest routes, which are all the routes I climbed. This list includes only peaks with 300 feet of prominence; going back to the Peakbagger issue you'll see The Sphinx and Spearhead Pinnacle are soft-ranked on the Peakbagger site, but not on the LoJ site. The Peakbagger page also includes various unranked Wyoming 13ers, but does not include ranked Peak 13180. See this page for more information.

Finally, there is some uncertainty regarding the Twin Peaks, located just above Knapsack Col between Titcomb Basin and the Peak Lake cirque. It is generally regarded the East Twin Peak is slightly higher, but after numerous attempts made by the 5 finishers to determine whether West Twin Peak is truly lower, it was not conclusive. Therefore, until someone goes up there with a surveyors sight level (at a minimum), it is going to be customary to climb both the Twin Peaks to be certain. Simple line of sight tests done by myself while standing on West Twin concluded the two peaks are very likely within 10 feet of one another.

One last note - these are serious peaks and should not be taken lightly. It would be a great idea to at the very least have climbed peaks of all difficulty ranges in more rugged places like the Cascades, Sierra Nevada, Beartooths etc before attempting a full boar attempt of the Wyoming 13ers. Knowledge of how to use ropes in moderate alpine climbing settings as well as a general understanding and experience with glaciers is also required. Climbing even all the Colorado 14ers would likely not prepare you sufficiently for this list. Experience is gained by simply doing it more and slowly increasing your comfort levels both with regards to climbing ability and exposure, proper use of technical gear, and with having general mountain sense.

Gannett Peak in the morning...The highest mountain in Wyoming, Gannett Peak -- photo by Dave K
The TetonsWyoming's most famous 13er, the Grand Teton -- photo by musicman82

 

Wyoming 13er List

Rank Image Peak Name Elevation Prominence YDS Class County Quad Easiest Route
1 Gannett Peak 13,804 7,076 4 Fremont/Sublette Gannett Peak Gooseneck Route
2 Grand Teton 13,770 6,550 5.4 Teton Grand Teton Owen Spalding
3 Fremont Peak 13,745 1,184 3 Fremont/Sublette Fremont Peak South South Slopes
4 Mount Warren 13,722 982 3 Fremont Gannett Peak SW Chute
5 Mount Helen 13,620 840 4 Sublette Gannett Peak East Ridge
6 Turret Peak 13,620 640 5.0 Fremont Fremont Peak North North Ridge
7 Mount Sacagawea 13,569 469 4 Fremont/Sublette Fremont Peak North East Ridge
8 Jackson Peak 13,517 737 3 Fremont/Sublette Fremont Peak South SE Ridge
9 Mount Woodrow Wilson 13,502 522 5.1 Fremont/Sublette Gannett Peak North Couloir
10 Bastion Peak 13,494 674 3 Fremont/Sublette Gannett Peak North Slopes
11 Mount Febbas 13,468 728 2 Fremont Fremont Peak North From Blaurock Pass
12 Sunbeam Peak 13,460 600 2 Fremont Fremont Peak North From Blaurock Pass
13 Flagstone Peak 13,450 830 2 Fremont/Sublette Gannett Peak North Ridge
14 Pinnacle Ridge 13,365 345 4 Fremont/Sublette Gannett Peak North side
15 Downs Mountain 13,349 1,569 2 Fremont/Sublette Downs Mountain Various
16 Mount Koven 13,265 445 5.3 Fremont/Sublette Gannett Peak South Ridge
17 The Sphinx 13,258 318 3 Fremont/Sublette Gannett Peak NW Ridge
18 Spearhead Pinnacle 13,220 320 5.3 Fremont/Sublette Gannett Peak North Ridge
19 American Legion Peak 13,205 945 3 Fremont/Sublette Gannett Peak South side
20 Bete Noire (Brown Cliffs HP) 13,198 1,058 3 Fremont Fremont Peak South West side
21 Wind River Peak 13,192 2,572 2 Fremont/Sublette Temple Peak South Slopes
22 East Twin Peak 13,185 405 2+ Sublette Gannett Peak West Ridge via Mammoth
23 Peak 13180 13,180 320 3 Fremont/Sublette Gannett Peak SE side
24 Cloud Peak 13,167 7,077 2 Big Horn/Johnson Cloud Peak SW Ridge
25 Desolation Peak 13,155 935 3 Sublette Gannett Peak SE Ridge
26 Split Mountain 13,155 575 2+ Sublette Gannett Peak West Ridge
27 Francs Peak 13,153 4,056 2 Park Francs Peak Various
28 Henderson Peak 13,115 775 4 Sublette Gannett Peak North Ridge
29 Klondike Peak 13,114 664 2+ Sublette Gannett Peak East Ridge
30 Peak 13062 (South Downs Mountain) 13,062 442 2 Fremont/Sublette Downs Mountain Various
31 Ellingwood Peak (Harrower Peak) 13,052 912 4 Sublette Fremont Peak South SW Ridge
32 Bow Mountain 13,020 680 3 Sublette Gannett Peak NW Ridge
33 Mount Whitecap 13,020 600 4 Sublette Gannett Peak NW Ridge
34 Black Tooth Mountain 13,005 665 4 Big Horn/Johnson Cloud Peak NE Ramp
35 Knife Point Mountain 13,001 661 3 Fremont/Sublette Fremont Peak South South side

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Aug 28, 2020 10:51 pm - Hasn't voted

All peaks added

I added SP pages for all the remaining peaks on this list, and adopted and reworked 10 others. Also, the YDS ratings have been updated. Thanks!

eli.boardman

eli.boardman - Nov 12, 2020 4:02 pm - Hasn't voted

Trip Reports from Finishers

Since this list is so interesting, almost everyone that's finished it has published trip reports and photos. Here's a quick list of finishers' trip reports for further reading, route planning, and photo enjoyment. (Listed in order of authors' list completion.) Sarah (first to finish, together with Teresa; many separate trips and technical routes) http://www.13ergirl.com/wyoming.html Matt (continuous push of many Winds peaks with Eric plus various other climbs) https://www.lemkeclimbs.com/wyoming.html Eli (first to finish in a year, many short efficient linkups, including 8 peaks in a day) https://sunlitsummit.com/trip-reports/wyoming/wyoming-13ers/ Eric (current FKT holder, climbed many Winds peaks with Matt, plus more) https://www.countryhighpoints.com/wyoming-13ers/

eli.boardman

eli.boardman - Mar 29, 2021 8:25 pm - Hasn't voted

Difficulty Ratings

Koven is not the hardest -- if climbed in early season, it goes at 5.0 with some moderate snow via the east couloirs, as described in my trip report. Spearhead's rating of "5.3" comes from the Bonney Guidebook which rated the Grand Teton class 4; by modern ratings Spearhead would be at least 5.4, maybe higher. Bete Noire is no more than class 2. Black Tooth is no more than class 3.

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Geography
Children

Children

Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. For example, the Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' The Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children.