Dark and severe peak on the left of the Rutor Glacier with a superb panorama on Rutor and Mont Blanc.The route is very various from the simple trekking to the glacier and easy rock climbing. The severe aspect, some problem to face to cross the Rutor torrent and the absence of path over the hut (Rifugio Deffeyes) reduce the number of the climbers.The easier normal route requests one step of 20 mt of 2nd degree.
The Rifugio Deffeyes of the Italian Alpine Club (tel. 0165.884.239 or mobile tel. 373.202.760 349.49.05.603), is a hut of 100 places open from june to september and it is the base for all the Rutor Group.To arrive to the hut: start from the town of Aosta (580 m) in direction Courmayeur Mont Blanc. Keep the left in Prè St.Didier and go up to La Thuile-La Joux (1650 m) (40 Km 45 min by car 1 hour by bus from Aosta railroad station). Leave the car in the free parking and on foot go up to the Rifugio Deffeyes (2494 m) (2h e 30’).
WGS84 UTM Zone 32T:
La Joux 5.061.777 N 341.330 E
Rifugio Deffeyes 5.060.162 N 343.211 E
Grande Assaly 5.057.625 N 341.825 E
No permits, fee or seasonnal closures or parking pass except the prohibition to camp out of the authorized campings.Out of the authorized campings it is possible to set a tent only from 19 pm to 7 am over the 2500 m.
When To Climb
The mountain is usually climbed from half july to half september. Out of this season the climb requests to be good alpinist with experience of the place and a good winter equipment. In the Rifugio Deffeyes there is a winter room always open but no guardian and foods are in place.In winter there is danger of avalanches.
On the road from Aosta to La Thuile there are several campings.In La Thuile there is the Camping Rutor tel 0165 884165 [email protected] www.campingrutor.netvallee.it.
Near the mountain the Rifugio Deffeyes of the Italian Alpine Club (tel. 0165.884.239 or mobile tel. 373.202.760 349.49.05.603), is a hut of 100 places open from june to september and it is the base for all the Rutor Group.
There are not specific web sites but general meteo and snow sites: www.regione.vda.it or http//meteo.chamonix.com/MetPre.php3. No web cams. During summer the best information is the telephone number of the Rifugio Deffeyes 0165.884.239.
First Climber: Jacquemod from italian, Col Tachuy, side in september 1878.
First climbers of north face: Puiseux brothers 1879.
First Climbers of the normal route here reported: M.Velasco, I. Belfrond, V. Belfrond 1890
First winter climbers of the north face: D. Arnod, D. Carlin, P. Creus, R. Willien of the Italian Alps Toops 1940