Monte Paramont is a slender pyramid that rises from the northern slope of Passo di Planaval. It is the furthest ramification of the Rutor range.
The ridge that divides Valgrisenche from the valley of La Thuile continues from Paramont's summit due northeast toward Torre del Tighet, Torre Tonda, and Monte Colombo.

In the northwest direction, the same ridge develops into a spur that encloses a wide, short valley with no outlet, which extends to the ice chute of Monte Paramont .The spur splits shortly before Mont Colmet; the eastern branch descends to Colle della Serra and Passo di Ameran, rises again to Becca Pouignenta, and ends at Monte Charvet; the western branch goes through Monte Colmet, Colle della Croce, and the rolling slopes of Testa d'Arpy.

The name "Paramont," which means "covering the mountain," perfectly fits this beautiful and unusual peak, perhaps unique in its form: On the northeast ridge, a massive subpeak at 3154m suggests the crowding together and mingling of two mountains. Between opposing rock bands, the icy and narrow north face rises most elegantly, broken in the middle by a great ice wall that crosses the face almost from side to side.
The terminal chute ends just beyond Point 3154; as a consequence, it can be seen also from the distant city of Aosta, while the face itself is hardly visible from the valley floor, because it is partially hidden by a lush forest.

First Ascents

N-W Arête: First ascent, Nicodemo Jadanza, (Aug 1880).
S Arête: Nicodemo Jadanza, (1880).
N-E Arête: Emanuele Andreis, Luigi Bon and E. Denina, (Aug 03th, 1927).
Wall N: Pino Formento, Eugenio Bochet and Cesare Quey, (Aug 10th, 1939).
S-W Wall: Osvaldo Cardellina, Roy Cardellina and Danilo Garzotto, (Aug 08th, 1993).
N-N-W Wall: Osvaldo Cardellina, (Jul 27th, 1999).

Getting There

BY CAR:

From Torino, Milano, etc: motorway A5. Exit in Morgex.
From Switzerland: through the Grand St. Bernard Tunnel or the homonym Pass.
From France: through Mont Blanc Tunnel or Petit St. Bernard Pass.

BY PLANE:

Aeroporto Internazionale "Corrado Gex" Saint Christophe: www.airvallee.com

The North Face

The north face offers a wonderful ascent with great views of Mont Blanc range. The average slope is around 40 degrees.
Its first ascent was by Pino Formento, Eugenio Bochet and Cesare Quey, who started from the floor of Valdigne (923m) at 4 AM and reached the summit at 3 PM on August 10, 1939.
The second ascent was by Renato Quendoz and Domenico Chatrian on June 9, 1968, also in one day. They started from the end of the country road.
The third ascent was by Antonio Garzotto, Osvaldo Cardellina, Ruggero Busa and Pino Trevisan on July 6, 1969. They started from Montagna (that is Alpage) Promou (2018m).

From the city of Aosta (583m) take State Route 26 or Turnpike A5 toward Mont Blanc: from Morgex (923m) head for the small city of La Salle, arrived at Le Pont cross the bridge over the Dora in the direction of the village of Chabodey, and proceed along the country road that runs through the thick forest toward Alpe Lazei (1515m). But you must park before, not far from Chabodey, since the country road is open only to residents.

Continue in the direction of Montagna della Valle (1615m) and, on easy mule-track, reach eventually Montagna Alta (1649m).
Here the trail forks: a side spur goes on to Gran Bouillon--more precisely to Alpe Leseney (2095m).
Keep on the main trail along the floor of Vallone di Sopra (d'en Haut) until Montagna di Promou (2018m). This is a convenient bivy place since the upper valley lacks huts adjacent to the pastures. It's about 3 hours from La Salle to here.

The following route description is due to Osvaldo Cardellina and refers to the wall condition in the remote July of 1969.
From the pasture continue briefly along the trail, which, after a right turn, ends on the moraine at the foot of the eastern slopes of Chanté Colmet (2427m).
Leave the trail to stay on the valley floor aiming for a small lake (2123m) in a grassy esplanade strewn with large erratic boulders.
Pass the moraine above the lake by just over 200m and proceed straight to the base of the north face.
Go up the ice-snow field for about 200m until you are under a rock band, which is roughly 150m tall and abundantly sprinkled by a waterfall.
Overcome the cliff on the left, reaching the alternation of snowfields and rock ribs which, after 300m, ends just under the huge serac that divides the face in two. Proceed along the edges of one of the rock ribs (which could serve as shelter in case of icefall) and cross right (west) towards a tiny gully where snowslides are quite common.
Climb it quickly, if it is not icy--here the FA party had to cut over 200 steps and use ice pitons--eventually tending toward the orographic right hand side. After about 70m exit to the upper part of the face, which is now significantly less steep.
Pass a subsidence and reach the terminal crevasse of the steep final stretch, about 100m high. The crevasse is usually quite open and requires a laborious and delicate crossing. Past this hurdle, aim directly for the summit rock outcrops. (5 hours from Montagna di Promou; 8 hours total).

The north face is about 800m tall. In the late sixties the route was rated AD, but the last few hot summers have thinned the great serac and increased the difficulties to D or D+. The danger of avalanches and rock and ice fall has also increased. The slope of the gully alongside the serac is between 50° and 60°.

Descent from Monte Paramont is usually along the standard route, known as "Route des Ussellettes". This route runs along the rather exposed SW ridge, then, through Col des Ussellettes (3027m) and Glacier des Ussellettes, leads to the Deffeyes hut at the foot of Rutor Glacier, 800m below the Paramont summit. It is rated E/E, that is, for expert hikers, and is the most popular ascent route to the summit.

Gear

Mountaineering equipment including ice axe, crampons, rope, ice screws, and carabiners.

Campings

Remember that free camping is forbidden (except for emergency reasons, over 2.500 mt., from darkness until dawn).

Mountain Condition

You can find all the needed informations at the official site of the Valle d'Aosta Region:
Valle d'Aosta Meteo

Webcam

WEBCAM on Aosta Valley:
Webcam

Books and Maps

BOOKS:

"Guida delle Alpi Occidentali" di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone C.A.I. Sezione di Torino Volume II (parte II) 25-05-1896.
"Guida della Regione Autonoma Valle d’Aosta" di Mario Aldrovandi; Ed. S.P.E. di Carlo Fanton Torino 1964.
"80 itinerari di Escursionismo Alpinismo e Sci Alpinismo in Valle d’Aosta", di Osvaldo Cardellina, Ed. Musumeci, Giugno 1977 (in Italian); seconda Ed. Luglio 1981; terza Ed. Luglio 1984; (in French), prima Ed. Febbraio 1978; seconda Ed. Marzo 1980.
"Guida dei Monti d'Italia Alpi Graie Centrali" di Alessandro Giorgetta - Club Alpino Italiano-Touring Club Italiano, 1985 (in Italian).
"Ascensioni 1964-1969" Diario Alpinistico di Ilario Antonio Garzotto (unpublished).
"Diari Alpinistici" di Osvaldo Cardellina e Indice Generale accompagnato da Schedario Relazioni Ascensioni 1964-2006 (unpublished).

MAPS:

Kompass "Massiccio del Monte Bianco Valle d’Aosta" sentieri e Rifugi Carta turistica 1:50.000.
Kompass "Gran Paradiso Valle d'Aosta" sentieri e Rifugi Carta turistica 1:50.000.
Enrico Editore Ivrea-Aosta "Gruppo del Gran Paradiso" 1:50.000.
I.G.M. Istituto Geografico Militare Maps 1:25.000.

Useful Numbers

Protezione Civile Valdostana località Aeroporto 7/A Saint Christophe (Ao) Tel. 0165-238222.
Bollettino Valanghe Tel. 0165-776300.
A.I.NE.VA. (Associazione Interregionale Neve e Valanghe).
Bollettino Meteo Tel. 0165-44113.
Unità Operativa di Soccorso Sanitario Tel. 118.

Acknowledgements

Many thanks are due to the friends that helped me translating my text and added some improvements to the page.

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