Torre Ponton

Roundish big mountain, between the Pontonnet Pass and the Fenetre (Window) Champorcher, has two major peaks of which the first (north-northwest) falls on the first of the two hills and then continue in the direction of the Eiffel Pontonnet forming the southern buttress of Tersiva (3.515m); the second one is aimed at Fenetre before the watershed gets up in the near Bec Costazza (3.092m) and to the farthest Cima of Péradza (3.021m), where the partition ends between the valleys of Champorcher (East) and Cogne. The other two "peaks" in existence to be more than these are the joints: the first face to the west-northwest separates the deep North Slope, which extends to the west of the Col Pontonnet from a vertical wall West, not yet risen, pointing Alpe del Ponton and fiancheggita right by a steep slope south-southwest rocky-grassy path downhill and probably only once in 1897. the other Ante Summit down from the South (3.042m) on the opposite side of the Miserin, for separating the Eastern Slope crushed by a wall Southeast, not yet explored, looming over the cabin before Fenetre. All of these routes have been abandoned or discarded over time in advance, since there is little attraction for climbing and dangers far exceed expectations in this regard. Sure the most followed is that of the first climber of 1849, but remaining more to the right of the northeast slope below him, that is almost always on the edge of the ridge north-northwest, as did John Bobba, alone, in 1877. But this Summit antecedemente may have already been visited by the Keeper of Cogne and Champorcher of King Vittorio Emanuele I, as evidenced by the positions of the Hill Pontonnet hunting. Beautiful, easy and scenic hike, suitable for the practice of Ski-Mountaineering; unfortunately, the approach is extended to Dondena from Lillaz limit the number of visits. Climbing fun is offered by the rise through the Corner West-northwest, starting from the same saddle about 2.840/5 meters immediately to the Southeast of Lake Pontonnet (2.035m). Remarkable point of observation on the highest peaks of Aosta Valley and until the Ligurian Alps, Monviso and Argentera, but and especially on the whole, nearby Gran Paradiso, which you can admire the Eastern sector, here turned to the Southwest, from Tower Lavina, Arolla, Apostles and Roccia Viva/Gay Groups to Summit (4.061m) and from this on Northern watersheed to the La Grivola (3.969m).

 

 

 

 

 

Between Bec Costazza/Tour Pontonnet-Tersiva, left : S Ridge, SE Wall, E-NE Slope & N-NW Crest from Southeast Miserin

First Ascents

• First on the Summit NE Wall: Abbot Pierre Chanoux, (1849), in ascent from Cogne-Lillaz.
• In winter: Unknown.
• N-NW Arête (from Pontonnet Lakes): Giovanni Bobba, solo, (1877).
• W-NW Edge (integral, from Ponton Alp): Osvaldo Cardellina and Emilio Bertona, (Sep 02th, 1999). First Repetition: Osvaldo Cardellina, Emilio Bertona, Gianfranco Vicentini and Nicola Colajanni (Aug 02th, 2002), in ascent from Pontonnet Lakes. Second Repetition: Osvaldo Cardellina and Emilio Bertona, (Sep 05th, 2005), Pontonnet.
• SE Arête: Engineer Paganini and Elyseé Jeantet, (1861), in ascent from Lillaz.
• S-SW Slope: Giovanni Bobba and Pietro Perret, (Sep 12th, 1897).

Getting There

BY CAR:

• From Torino, Milano, etc: Motorway A5. Exit at Aosta Ovest. Drive to the near Aymavilles. Follow the directions for Valle di Cogne.
• From Switzerland: through the Grand Saint Bernard Tunnel or the namesake Pass. Drive to Aosta, then follow the direction for Courmayeur on SS.26. Just after Sarre, turn to the left, in the direction of Valle di Cogne.
• From France: through Mont Blanc Tunnel or Petit St. Bernard Pass. It isn't necessary to take Motorway A5: you can drive on SS.26, in the direction of Aosta.Before arriving at the Village of Sarre, turn right following the sign for Valle di Cogne. After Aymavilles, the SR.47 crosses the Villages of Vieyes, Epinel and Cretaz and after about 25 Km arrives at Cogne (1.534m). From Cogne you can get the Village of Lillaz (1.617m).

BY PLANE:

• Aeroporto "Corrado Gex" Saint Christophe (Aosta).

Approaches from Lillaz & Dondena

A) - From Lillaz towards Urtier Walloon and by Sogno di Berdzé Refuge: Starting from Cogne (1.534m) you must arrive (bus or car) to the car parking of Lillaz (1.617m). Follow the path n° 13/TVC/Alta Via n° 2 below upaved road, until reach Baite di Gollies Low and Upper (1.831m, 1.869m; here you can also get along the same route with slightly longer, less direct but certainly more scenic). Move on until tiny Church of Crêt (2.020m; wooden fountain), clearly visible from lowlands. Once gone beyond Tsavanis (2.296m; fountain), preceded by a magnificent waterfall upon the Torrent Urtier and above the private farms dirt road and Manda (2.370m) Pastures, the refuge is reached, immediately after a fresh spring water from a rock in a great boulder (3h'30/3h'45, from Lillaz parking). From Sogno di Berdzè (2.526m) hut, follow Southeast direction down the walloon, proceeding through a series of parallel rocky slabs alternate with ledges at the bottom and on snowfields not too steep in the upper one, heading for a most visible saddle, progressively climbing. Keep going left (North) direction, and once gone beyond some steep slopes, move toward the true base of the mountain (*** Remark: the crest, especially in the descent phase, can be walked just below with significant savings in time), through a ridge. Continue to climb on rag rocks to arrive at a big stone, then marching on wreck slopes to reach the final rocky ridge and the Summit (2h'00/2h'15, from the Hut "Sogno di Berdzé").

 

 

 

 

B) - From Champorcher also from Dondena Refuge to Miserin Shelter neighbor the Lake: Champorcher-Château (1.427m) go to the Village La Cort where, shortly afterwards, began the dirt "Royal Route" numbered 9/High Way n° 2; crossed to the Alps Vardette, Brenvei, Champlong Grand, Grand Pianas and Leituerie you arrive at the small parking lot just above the Village of Dondena (2.110m, panels and reports signs in yellow). After a short descent we cross the Torrent Ayasse on a small stonebridge continuing through the private farms dirt road (prohibition of passage for cars) that reaches the Dondena Refuge (2.200m). From this continue Westward with it, concomitant with the path n° 7B/Alta Via n° 2, concluding with a short ascent to the South; or starting immediately behind the same, better, with the path n° 7 to reach the Miserin Shelter (2.582m; Sanctuary; 1h'00/1h'15) at the lake of the same name. This trip is already satisfactory for itself along a route that each year is crossed by a famous procession which takes place August 5th, dedicated to Madonna delle Nevi (Our Lady of the Snows) and full of a centuries-old tradition and with the participation of the inhabitants of the nearby valleys of Piedmont. It should surely the second path, the more "rapid" and less "busy" from the crowd of Walkers. From the Rifugio Miserin move towards West to a grassy-rocky promontory just to the right of the "Truc of the Lake" (2.703m); absolutely not go up directly, but using a small path unnumbered, to dub the same to the North, reaching the summit of the same (2.841m). Here the East-northeast Crest appears simple and consists of a large, grassy rounded off; the same ends, after a large rounded saddle at a edge of rocks bluish, very thin and dangerous, especially when wet to moist soil or worse. Cross it with almost flat path but exposed on both sides. After a long flight of soil and debris (around 70 meters, boring and tiring) leads to a small fork against a small and gray pillar. Do the same on the left and climb through a ramp diagonally from right to left highlighted by a block detached to about half (II°+/III°-); or descend for about 10 meters and climb through a gray slab and "lying" that leads to a rocky groove (II°-). Through this you reach the point of crossing with the previous ramp, just above. A series of fairly easy rocks, arranged in terraces but covered with soil and grass also leads after eighty feet the cairn on the Summit (EE/A/PD-; 1h'30/2h'00 from Shelter near Lake Miserin ; 2h'45/3h'15 from Refuge Dondena).

 

 

 

 

Route

From "Sogno di Berdzè (2.526m), to continue on the path n° 13/TVC/Alta Via n° 2 for the Fenetre de Champorcher (2.826m) until the alternative (2.682m); through the path n° 10F, with diagonal route to left, to ascend in direction Northwest until the small ponds (2.742m and 2.873m), to continue on the dirt road poderale until the "Baita Orlando" (2.641m). From this last, through the path n° 10E to go back after in North direction and then East to the two Lakes Pontonnet (2.808m and 2.816m) and to the Pontonnet Hill. To continue on the easy Ridge North-northwest that leads, after an Ante Top connecting with West-northwest Edge, to the peak exceeding the rise to 2.922 meters (3h'30 from refuge).

 

 

Various Other Routes

In addition to the normal route from the Pass Crest Pontonnet through the North-North-West, or leaning on the North side to northeast just to the left going up, there are other ways that we list here just being basically the same only the variants that rise up along the extended North Slope to reach the edge West-northwest. In any case, the slope is always on the road to the Col Pontonnet coming out and taking the path to the right, ie in the direction of South or Southeast slope off North.

 

 

1) - Via "shell-shaped" it's a small walloon immediately West of the Normal Route; being covered with snow throughout the year is useful for a rapid descent or ascent to a teaching where novices can get in touch with the use of crampons passing a slope that gradually increases, but without excessive slopes (from 30° to around 33°).

2) - Way "of colorless or Jalin quartzs" just to the right of the previous route, it is a fun location "research" which aims to raise the whole side without leaving a long streak. 3)- Way "of the North-northwest Slope" lies between the previous and is bounded on the right by the West-northwest Corner; runs on a wide slope "open" and it is, though rarely covered in Ski-Mountaineering. At its base, on the right, or West, there are rocky plates useful for a fun workout, especially for young beginners.

4) - Via on "West-Northwest Edge": the right edge of this side rises an edge that exceeded two rocky headlands, the Ante Top Northwest reaches the junction with the Standard Route. The same divide the North Slope to a vertical wall facing West. You can climb either starting from the Alp Ponton (2.631m), after the "Baita Orlando" (2.641m), by means of a steep gorge that leads to the base (as for the first ascent; about 2.840/5 meters), or, much better, achieving this with larger circle without descending to Ponton and starting with the path for the two Lakes Pontonnet. Climbing does not have a fixed course and varies somewhat depending on the past sought and takes place on rock route but good enough. There are lots of opportunities for circumvention to the left (North) just below the edge, but the location on the corner of the ridge is more secure and enjoyable. All other ways, as we have already said, are not advisable since the rock, in addition to being somewhat broken, is covered by dangerous layers grassy; remains a final comment on the Slope North-northeast, toward the Champorcher Valley, which can be used, again with appropriate caution, the nice trips Ski-Mountaineering, starting from the Dondena Village or its Refuge also from this of the Miserin nearby the homonym Lake. his course (preferably via the nearby Pontonnet Pass) can also be adapted to Snowshoeing.

 

 

4) - Via "dello Spigolo Ovest-nordovest": al limite destro di questo versante sale uno spigolo che, superati due promontori rocciosi, raggiunge l'Antecima Nordovest alla congiunzione con la Via Normale. Lo stesso divide il Versante Settentrionale da una parete verticale rivolta ad Ovest. Si può salire sia partendo dall'Alpe Ponton (2.631 m), dopo la "Baita Orlando" (2.641 m), per mezzo di una ripida gola che conduce alla base (come per la prima salita), oppure, molto meglio, raggiungendo questa con giro più largo senza scendere al Ponton e partendo con il sentiero per i due Laghi Pontonnet. L'arrampicata non ha un percorso obbligato e varia alquanto a seconda dei passati ricercati e si svolge su roccia rotta ma abbastanza buona. Esistono molte possibilità di effettuare aggiramenti a sinistra (Nord) subito al di sotto dello spigolo, ma il percorso sul filo di cresta é più sicuro nonché divertente. Tutte le altre vie, come già abbiamo detto, non sono consigliabili poiché la roccia, oltre ad essere alquanto rotta, si presenta ricoperta da pericolosi strati erbosi; rimane un'ultima considerazione sul Versante Nord-nordest, rivolto verso la Valle di Champorcher, che può essere usato, sempre con le adeguate cautele, nelle piacevoli gite Sci-Alpinistiche dal Villaggio di Dondena, dal suo Rifugio o da quello presso il Lago Miserin. Questo percorso (meglio tramite il vicino Colle Pontonnet) può essere adattato anche alle Racchette da neve.

Difficulties

This route can be considered EE/from F to F+.

 

L'itinerario è classificato EE/da F a F+.

Huts

• Rifugio Sogno di Berdzè (2.526 m)