Overview
Very nice shape mountain,with a very complex morphology.It is placed on the ridge watershed,
that divides Valgrisenche from Val di Rhemes,where it is the highest mountain.
The summit is constituted from two tops distant 800 meters from eachothers.
The north (3607m) and the south (3577m).
The lower point between them is called "Colle della Grande Rousse"(3516m).
The flank of Val di Rhemes can be characterized by 3 section:the one in the center,
overhung from the crest that joins the two tops,composed by a big cliff high 800 meters.
The northerner who culminates with the north top,that raises with a rocky spur called "Fort de Bard".
And that meridional formed from the Glacier di Fos and the Becca di Fos,that culminates with the south top.
The west side on Valgrisenche is nearly totally fleeced of ice,and divisible in 3 parts:
the glaciers of Mount Forciaz,Invergnan and Giasson.
The total lack of huts on the east side,makes it a wild mountain with difficult approach.
On the west side,the biv.Ravelli gives the possibility to divide the climb in two days and
to approach the mountain from the easyest and most logical route.
The sense of the name "Grande Rousse",probably came from the Aosta Valley dialet.
Which could be "Big glacier" or "Big summit of the glacier".
ApproachFROM ITALY:
From Valgrisanche
From the motorway A5 Montebianco(from Geneve,Turin,Milan),take the
exit Aosta Ovest and follow the direction to Arvier-Valgrisanche.
From Val di Rhemes
From the motorway A5 Montebianco(from geneve,Turin,Milan),take the
exit Aosta Ovest and follow the direction to Villeneuve-Val di Rhemes.
FROM FRANCE:
From Val d'Isere
From the village of Val d'Isere,enter in the area called "Reserve Naturelle de la Grande Sassiere".
From here,few routes,through Col de Rheme
Golette and Col de la Tsanteleina,permit to reach the Italian side
at the foot of this mountain.
FROM OTHERS PARTS:
Is possible to reach the Aosta Valley also through the:
France-pass of Piccolo St.Bernardo(closed in winter).
France-Tunnel of Mont Blanc.
Swiss-Tunnel of Grand St.Bernardo.
Swiss-pass of Grand St.Bernardo(closed in winter).
Route History-From Glacier Invergnan-Blansford,Neighbour,Nichols,
Roswell,Favret,Brunod 13/08/1864 (first ascent)
-Northwest spur-W.Coolidge and C.Almer 25/08/1885
-North wall-D.Garin,A.Sciardi 07/1980
-North ridge-F.Vallino,G.Bich,A.Castagneri 30/07/1885
-East ridge-V.Gayda,C.Therisòd 29/07/1906
-East flank-L.Barale,A.Gorret,A.Martinelli 05/08/1974
-South ridge-G.Bobba,C.Therisod 04/08/1888
-WNW spurAldo e Ester Bonacossa 07/08/1926
Routes-From Glacier Invergnan and Colle Grande Rousse-Normal route
(from biv.Ravelli PD+/AD)(C in the pic)
-Northwest spur-2° Normal route (from biv.Ravelli PD+/II+)
(B in the pic)
-North wall-Bad rocks (600m AD+/D)
-From Glacier Forciaz and north ridge-Friable rocks (from biv.Ravelli
III°/IV°)(A in the pic)
-East ridge-Difficult but safe (III°/IV°)
-From east flank and Colle Grande Rousse-Very long and not racomended (PD+)
-South ridge-Safe and most logic (AD/III°)(D in the pic)
-SKI route-Very hard ascent.From biv.Ravelli OSA
Refuges and BivouacsBivouac Luigi Ravelli 2860m
9 places,always open.From Uselleres 1778m,take the path n10(3 hours diff. T)
Books,Links and MapsLINKS
www.rifugi-bivacchi.com
Meteo Valle d'Aosta
Aineva.it
BOOKS
"Alpi Graie Centrali" Guida dei Monti d'Italia.
"Il Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso n3" Istituto Geografico Centrale.
MAPS
-Kompass - Gran Paradiso Valle d'Aosta Sentieri e Rifugi
Carta Turistica 1:50000
-Enrico Editore Ivrea-Aosta – “Gruppo del Gran Paradiso” 1:50000
-I.G.C.-Istituto Geografico Centrale - Valsavarenche - Valle di Rhêmes - Valgrisenche
Carta dei sentieri e dei rifugi n°102 -1:25000
Images
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