Mont Gelé

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Val d'Aosta/Valais, Italy/Switzerland, Europe
Elevation:
11545 ft / 3519 m
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Mont Gelé
Created On: May 1, 2004
Last Edited On: Feb 26, 2018

Overview

Mont Gelé 3519 m

Mont Gelé 3519 m belongs to the Pennine Alps and it's located on the boundary Italy-Switzerland.  It separates the great Conca di By area from Valpelline right sub-valley called "Comba di Crete Seche". It's a classic ascent  and a great ski-mountaineering trail. Mont Gelè can be climbed from Comba di Crete Seche (via Rifugio Crete Seche) and from Conca di By (via Bivacco Regondi-Gavazzi). 

Mont Gelè
Mont Gelé
Mont Gelè
Mont Gelé












Both routes are good for mountaineering and ski-mountaineering.

Getting There

To climb the Normal route starting from Ruz you must take the Valpelline.

Road Access to Valpelline

- From Turin and Milan: follow the A5 Motorway and exit to Aosta Est. Follow the road S27 towards Gran San Bernardo Tunnel, getting after about 10 km. to Variney m. 782; here you must leave the road to Grand San Bernardo and turn to right towards Valpelline m. 960, the valley’s main resort. Exit Valpelline, ignoring the road to Ollomont on the left, and carry on along Val Pelline main road. The road is reaching Oyace m. 1377, Bionaz m. 1606, the main resort of the upper valley, and Dzovenno. Leave the main road and turn to right to Ruz m. 1697 (parking). A "not well visible" wooden panel help for Telephone number and open/close label of Refuge Crete Seche. Go ahead about 2,5 km and park the car in the tiny village of Ruz, just before the road becomes unpaved.

- From Switzerland (Grand Saint Bernard Pass or Tunnel). Drive to Aosta direction. 4 km before arriving in Aosta, just before first tunnel, there is Variney village. Turn right for Valpelline and Place Moulin direction.

- From France via Mont Blanc tunnel or Petit St. Bernard pass. Follow Aosta direction via SS n.26. or Motorway A5 (exit Aosta Ovest because itdoesn't exist an exit to Aosta Est driving from Aosta to Turin). Once reached Aosta, follow the Grand St. Bernard direction. If you are on the old road for Grand St. Bernard, it joins the new one at Variney. Follow Valpelline, Place Moulin Lake direction. From Variney. Follow Valpelline, Place Moulin lake direction

Walking approach to Rifugio Crête Sèche

From Ruz follow the road with paved sections alternate with dirt sections (cars not allowed) in the direction of the Baou de Bouque Alp m. 2129 and the Berrier Alp m. 2192. In some places it is possible to follow some traces in the wood cutting the road.  Reached the Alpe Berrier 2192 m continue along the Alta Via n. 3 which gently leads to theRifugio  Crête Sèche 2410 m.   

Monte Gelé Normal route from Valpelline

Monte Gelé Normal route from Ruz (Valpelline)

Summit altitude: m 3519
Difficulty: Alpine F
Difference in level: 1100 m from Rif. Crête Sèche
Hut: Rifugio Crête Sèchem 2410
Starting point: Ruz, upper Valpelline

A very interesting and panoramic route inside a wild environment, following at first a good path, then ice slopes and the summit ridge

 From the refuge go up along the Comba di Crete Sèche towards the Bivacco Spataro 2600 m. Continue along the valley until you reach a wide plateau, Plan de la Sabla at the end of which you turn to left to climb a steep slope of snow (there are some indications of Alta Via n.3 - this is the most challenging section of the climb) leading to the glacier of the Aroletta (this plateau bears the name of Plan Plat). Reaching the Colle del Mont Gelè 3180 m from which it appears the summit cross of Mont Gelè, already visible. Continue north along a snowy slope that acts as a watershed between Bionaz and Ollomont. Skirt the Mont de la Balme and go left to the top of Mont Gele. Go up the steep snowy wall located under the vertical of the summit cross or take advantage of the easier ridge on the right.descent


Descent: reversing the same route.

Other routes

.Route Glassier - Via Bivacco Regondi

From Variney, follow Valpelline, Place Moulin lake direction. Once passed Valpelline village, turn left to Ollomont. Go ahead to Glassier direction (follow always "main" road) until road ends. Park the car at the big ground square just befor to cross a little bridge, the real begin of "No. 6" trail. Warning: 150 meters before arriving at the park, there are a plenty of yellow panels. This is the footpath to Conca di By (By is pronounced as "(to) Be" in english).

Essential gear

Rope, ice-axe, crampons,high mountain boots and clothes

Red Tape

No permits required, no seasonal closures, no parking pass required

Huts


Crête Sèche Hut
Rifugio Crête Sèche

- Rifugio Crete Seche 2.410 m. - 88 places (8 winter site) +39.0165.730030 or +39.347.0330713 (Daniele's mobile phone, hut owner)
Winter/Spring 2006: open from February 18th, only for weekend. Booking is mandatory.
More info at: www.rifugiocreteseche.com

Bivacco Spataro
Bivacco Spataro

- Bivacco Spataro 2.600 m. - 9 places, bad conditions 

Via Glassier-bivacco Regondi

- Bivacco Nino Regondi, 2.650 m. - 16 places


When To Climb

Mountaineering: from  middle June to middle September.
Ski mountaineering: from March to early May (it depends on snow conditions)

Meteo

Meteo Regione Valle d'Aosta


Meteo Switzerland

Guidebooks and maps

Alpi Pennine by Gino Buscaini

"Alpi Pennine" by Gino Buscaini - Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI-TCI

 "La Valpelline"  Foglio 115 -scale 1:30.000 - IGC (Istituto Geografico Centrale)