Helvetestinden

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Moskenesøy/Lofoten/Nordland, Norway, Europe
County:
Nordland
Activities:
Hiking, Trad Climbing
Season:
Summer
Elevation:
1988 ft / 606 m
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Page By:
Helvetestinden
Created On: May 28, 2011
Last Edited On: Oct 18, 2018

Overview


Helvetestinden 606 m

The breathtaking Lofoten Islands lie off Norway's Northern coast, West to Narvik and 200 km North of the Artic Circle. They are shaped in five large and five smaller islands and offer a wide choice of granite rock-climbing as well as winter mountaineering and summer scrambling.
Helvetestinden - literally The Hell Peak - is a mighty granite peak lying on Moskenesøy Island, the Lofoten westernmost island. Its location is truly spectacular, since the Helvetestinden stunning West face, 600 meters drop, is overlooking the wide and white sandy beach of Bunestranda, one of the more scenic and isolated beaches on the Lofoten Islands, and the Norwegian Sea.

Helvetestinden West Face from Einangen Col, Moskenesøy (Lofoten)
Helvetestinden West Face from Einangen Col


Some challenging trad climbing routes run on the awesome West face of Helvetestinden, but notwithstanding the impressive steepness of this cliff, scramblers and hikers may easily climb the peak along the "Sor Ryggen" (South Ridge), an excellent route to reach the summit, a wonderful place to enjoy breathtaking views all around.

Getting There

GETTING TO LOFOTEN

There are various possibilities:

- By car from Evenes Airport to Svolvær
- By ferry boat from Bodø to Moskenes, Værøy or Røst (South of Lofoten)
- By ferry boat from Skutvik to Svolvær or Skrova (North of Lofoten)
- By plane from Bodø

Sailing into Reinefjorden
Sailing into Reinefjorden
Granite cliffs around Kierkfjorden, Moskenesøy
Granite cliffs around Kierkfjorden, Moskenesoy











Getting to Helvetestinden

The reference-point is the picturesque village of Reine, lying on the shore of Reinefjorden, on the island of Moskenesøy, in the South-West of Lofoten. Two different ways to get to Reine:

- by car from Svolvær, following the Kong's Olav Veg (E10), a beautiful trip across the islands in about 124 km.
- by ferry boat directly from Bodø to Moskenes (5 km. from Reine)

Bunesfjorden seen from Helvetestinden South ridge, Lofoten
Bunesfjorden seen from Helvetestinden South ridge, Lofoten
Vindstad rorbuers, Lofoten
Vindstad rorbuers, Lofoten











The approach walk to Helvetestinden is starting from the small village of Vinstad, lying at the entrance of Bunesfjorden; Vinstad is very well reached in 1 hour from Reine, sailing by ferry into Reinefjorden and Kierkefjorden, another wonderful trip amongst several impressive granite-peaks.

Sor Ryggen (South Ridge) Normal Route report


Sor Ryggen (Normal Route) report

Summit altitude: m 606
Difficulty: Easy scramble
Difference in level: 600 m from Vindstad wharf
Exposure: South
Starting point: Vindstad wharf

A very interesting and panoramic route to enjoy exciting views over the fjords and the majestic granite peaks all around Kierkefjorden and Bunesfjorden

Slabby cliffs in Kierkefjorden, Lofoten
Slabby cliffs in Kierkefjorden
Helvetestinden map














From Vindstad ferry pier take a well worn and mainly on level path crossing the small village. Follow it along the left shore of Bunesfjorden (Western shore), in the direction of the back of the fjord. As you near this latter, you will meet a cemetery on the left. Avoid the trail towards the cementery and carry on in the direction of the cabins at the head of the fjord. You soon will see a signpost "Bunes". Follow this good trail heading left and up the hill, leading to a pass -Einangen Col - where you can enjoy quite exciting views over the scenic Bunes beach and the majestic walls overlooking it. 

Bunestranda and Norwegian Sea from Helvetestinden summit
Bunestranda and Norwegian Sea seen from the summit


From the col the main trail reach the Bunestranda (Bunes beach); to get to the Helvetestinden summit at the col leave the main trail and head to right looking for a trail - in the beginning not very obvious - crossing a grassy slope and heading towards a large rocky field. 

Bunestranda, Lofoten
Bunestranda, Lofoten
Sor Ryggen, Helvetestinden
Sor Ryggen












As you near the granite slabs the trail becomes well worn and climbs a gentle sloping gully rising amongst the rocky field getting to Brunaksla Col, where is located the starting point of South Ridge. From the col an amazing view over Kierkefjorden’s back with the village of Kierkfjord appears. 

Back of Kierkefjorden from Brunaksla Col
Back of Kierkefjorden from Brunaksla Col


The trail heads to left; an easy scramble along the narrow and a bit exposed ridge with exciting and unsurpassed views both to Bunestranda and the mighty peaks dominating the beach on the left-hand and Kierkfjorden on the right-hand will lead you on Helvetestinden small and aiy summit. A sensational view over Norwegian sea appears to the North. You can register yourself on the Summit-Book, curiously placed inside a little cairn by a tyrolean team of climbers.
The descent follows the same route (3-4 hours roundtrip).

Climbing routes overview

***Helvetestinden West Face Routes (Norwegian Scale)

Detail of Helvetestinden mighty West face
Detail of Helvetestinden mighty West face
Helvetestinden summit's cairn
Helvetestinden summit's cairn


















Different challenging trad climbing routes run on the stunning West Wall of the peak. From left to right:

- “Left Approximation” 6- 600 mt.
- “Helvetesveggen” 5+, A1 500 mt.
- “The Next Best Thing” 6+ 300 mt.
- “Norwegian Sheep Ranch” 7 300 mt.
- “Den Franske Pillaren” (The French Pillar) Grade unknown 300 mt.

Descent: along "Sor Ryggen" (South Ridge) 

More climbing information:
Rockfax Lofoten Guidebook- in English

Info about the most recent routes

In summer 2015  Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve climbed a new trad route on the huge West Wall of Helvetestinden,  Terra I Mar.  In the meantime the friends Salvador Llorens and Guillermo Cuadrado realized another new route on the SE Pillar,  Tradicionarius.   More info here:  Planetmountain

Red Tape

There are no particular restrictions in climbing and hiking.

Where to stay

Free camping in Bunestranda is a nice experience; it's an unforgettable beach lying below Helvetestinden majestic West Face. You're getting there after 45 minutes by walking from Vindstad. 

Storskiva and Bunestranda, Lofoten
Storskiva and Bunestranda
Vindstad bay, Lofoten
Vindstad bay













Alternatively there are some equipped campgrounds in the area:

- Moskenes Camping, Moskenes
- Skagen Camping, Flakstad
- Moskenesstraumen Camping, Å i Lofoten


Granite peaks over Reinefjorden, Lofoten
Reinefjorden
Mighty peaks in Reinefjorden, Lofoten
Mighty peaks in Reinefjorden













The typical Norwegian "rorbuer" can be rented in Reine. 

When to climb and hike

Best months are late May, June, July and August.

Climate

On Lofoten the weather can change suddenly from clear and blu sky with sunshine or the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) to violent storms with rain or snow. Maximum temperatures go from +30°C in June and July to -15°C in January and February; the average temperatures for these months are from +12°C to -3°C. The period with the minimum rainfall goes from April to June, while we may expect the maximum rainfall or snowfall between October and December.

Midnight sun, Lofoten
Midnight sun

Midnight sun: from 27 May to 17 July 
Polar night: from 6 December to 6 January

The Northern Lights can be seen over Lofoten from September to April.

Useful info about climate: Meteorologisk Institutt

Meteo

- Meteo Moskenes - Reine

External Links

Climbing info: Rockfax Lofoten Guidebook
Tourist info: Lofoten Islands
Lofoten

Guidebooks

Lofoten Rock climbing, scrambling and hiking guidebook
Walks and Scrambles in Norway
Seasons on Lofoten - Winter photograpy guidebook
Seasons on Lofoten - Summer photograpy guidebook

"Lofoten Rock" by Chris Craggs and Thorbjorn Enevoid - Rockfax 2008, £24.95 

"Walks and Scrambles in Norway" by Anthony Dyer, Ian H. Robertson and John Baddeley