OverviewMount Shasta is a volcano in the Cascades of Northern California outside of Mt. Shasta City. Over 15,000 summit attempts are made every year, only a third of which are successful. Avalanche Gulch is the least difficult and most popular route, and many people with no mountaineering experience are able to climb it (many more such people are not). An ice axe and crampons are necessary for all routes. One-day ascents are possible, but beginners will want to take two days so they can have more time to acclimatize.
Avalanches and rapidly changing weather conditions make winter climbs more dangerous, however rock fall is a threat year round. Visit the Shasta-Trinity National Forest web-site for more general information regarding other activites and safety information for The Shasta-Trinity National Forest.
Mountain ConditionsBecause Shasta towers over neighboring mountains, it tends to “create its own weather.” Moisture condenses on the mountain forming lenticular clouds, so even on clear days the mountain can be covered by clouds. Weather conditions can change rapidly on the mountain, especially in winter. One of the best sources for obtaining current mountain conditions can be
found at the Mt. Shasta Avalanche Center. Here you will find many links to sites that cover all aspects of climbing safely on Mt. Shasta.
Useful phone numbers:
The Fifth Season's (climbing & skiing report) 24 hour recorded message: (530) 926-5555
Mt. Shasta Ranger Station (Forest Service): (530) 926-4511
Mt. Shasta Ranger Station (Avalanche Report): (530) 926-9613
McCloud Ranger Station (Forest Service) for East side route and access road conditions: (530) 964-2184
Current ForecastCurrent NOAA / National Weather Service Forecast
Getting ThereThe Sierra Club Lodge approach via Bunny Flat is the most popular approach. Avalanche Gulch, Old Ski Bowl, Sargents Ridge, Green Butte Ridge, Casaval Ridge and Cascade Gulch are accessible from Bunny Flat. Take The Everitt Memorial Highway out of Shasta City and up the southwestern slope of the mountain to the Bunny Flat trailhead (6,900 feet), where there is a large parking area. From there take a two mile trail to Horse Camp (7900 ft) for all Bunny Flat routes except Green Butte and Sargent’s Ridge.
For the Clear Creek approach, take State Highway 89 East from the I-5 exit just south of Mount Shasta. Past McCloud turn left onto Forest Service Road 13, and left again onto Window Springs Road (Road 41N15). Konwakiton Glacier, Clear Creek, and Wintun Ridge routes can be accessed from this trailhead. At the intersection with Forest Road 31, go straight onto Road 41N61. Stay on 41N61 by going right at the first fork (with Road 41N25Y). At the next fork take a sharp left off Road 41N61 and take it to its end. From here, hike the Clear Creek Trail to its end, and then head towards the routes.
You can also leave highway 89 a few miles west of McCload and go east down McKenzie Butte Road 88. Take this 3 miles and turn east onto Road 31, which you follow until the junction with Widow Spring Road, which you take as described above.
Brewer Creek is reached by taking US 97 north from Weed. 12 miles after Weed, turn right on Forest Service Road 19. Go more than 10 miles down this road, where you join with Forest Service Road 31 for a short period. Then, go right onto Road 42N02. After around 2.5 miles turn left onto 42N10, and take this to the trailhead at the end.
North Gate is reached by taking US 97 North from Weed and turning right onto Military Pass Road (Road 43N19). Go past Military Pass and immediately turn right onto Road 42N76. Turn right after ¾ miles onto Road 42N16. Take this 1 ½ miles and turn left at the fork onto Road 42N16D. After another 1 1/2 miles, turn left onto Road 42N97, and take another left onto Road 42N97A. Take this to the trailhead at the end.
Bolam/Whitney Creek is approached by taking US 97 north from Weed, then right on Road 43N21 (before US97 intersects with A12). Stay on Road 43N21 until its end.
Red TapeSummit passes are required for anyone climbing above 10,000 feet. A summit pass costs $15 per person, and is good for three days starting on the date of purchase. Self issue kiosks are available at the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station on Alma St. in Mt. Shasta city, the McCloud Ranger Station on Hwy 89 in McCloud and at all trailheads. Annual summit passes are $25.00 and are good for one year from the date of purchase. Annual passes are available only during regular business hours at the Mt. Shasta and McCloud Ranger Stations.
A wilderness permit is required for any overnite stays in the Mt. Shasta Wilderness. Permits are not required for day hikes/climbs, but the Rangers encourage you fill one out so they have a record of who is on the mountain so they can locate you in case of an emergency or if you come up missing.
Camping is allowed everywhere. Lake Helen and the Sierra Club Horse Camp are the most popular (and crowded) areas.
Human waste removal bags are required and are available for free at all trailheads and must be carried by all climbers while on the mountain. If the kitty litter and Zip-Lock bag the Forest Service hands out for free concerns you, be creative and come up with your own system that is a little more "secure."
Additions/Corrections
Added by mtndave on 7/28/2003: Parking pass no longer required at all Mt. Shasta trailheads according to ranger at the Mt. Shasta City USFS.
Route Overview - Southwest Approach
Southwest Side GIS Image
Route Overview - Eastern Approach
Clear Creek Trailhead
Route
| Approx. Elev. Gain | Difficulty | Time Required
| | Clear Creek | 7,762 ft. | Class 3 | 1 Day | | Wintun Ridge | 7,762 ft. | Class 3 | 1 Day | | Konwakiton Glacier | 7,762 ft. | Class 4-5 | 1 to 2 Days |
East Side GIS Image
Route Overview - North / Northeast Approach
Whitney Falls Trailhead
Route
| Approx. Elev. Gain | Difficulty | Time Required
| | Whitney Glacier | 8,562 ft. | Class 4-5 | 2+ Days | | Whitney - Bolum Ridge | 8,562 ft. | Class 2-3 | 1 to 2 Days |
Bolum Creek Trailhead (4X4)
Route
| Approx. Elev. Gain | Difficulty | Time Required
| | Whitney Glacier | 7,362 ft. | Class 4-5 | 2+ Days | | Whitney - Bolum Ridge | 7,362 ft. | Class 2-3 | 1 to 2 Days |
These routes are best approached via the two wheel drive North Gate Trailhead, but will require more x-country travel.
Brewer Creek Trailhead
Route
| Approx. Elev. Gain | Difficulty | Time Required
| | Hotlum Glacier | 6,965 ft. | Class 4-5 | 1 to 2 Days | | Hotlum - Wintun Ridge | 6,965 ft. | Class 3-4 | 1 to 2 Days | | Wintun Glacier | 6,965 ft. | Class 4-5 | 1 to 2 Days |
North Side GIS Image
Useful Linkswww.shastahome.com with updated Shasta cam and Sno Park cam.
www.climbingmtshasta.org with updated Shasta cam.
USGS/Cascades Volcano Observatory/Mt. Shasta
GORP's Shasta Page. for more general information.
Summit Top PhotosPost your summit photos here!
When To ClimbGenerally, people climb May through October, but ascents are possible year round. Avalanche and weather conditions in the winter are often bad, so don’t expect to see many other people on Shasta in the winter.
External Links- Romain Wacziarg's Mount Shasta page
Photos of the ascent of Mount Shasta by Avalanche Gulch (July 2000)
- Northwest Outdoors Guide
Guide to mountaineering and hiking in the Pacific Northwest
- Mount Shasta Snow Cam
Updated pictures every 10 minutes of the mountain.
- Casaval Ridge AAC "Where did you bivy?" Winner
- Avalanche Gulch dayhike - May 12, 2001
- Another Avy Gulch dayhike - May 25, 2002
- Av Gulch 1999 - some pics, not many words
- Climbing Mt.Shasta
A comprehensive page covering routes, conditions, accident reports, and other current information about Mt. Shasta. It's a wonderful resource.
- Shasta Mountain Guides
Summit climbs, ski descents, glacier seminars, rock climbing. All on the the incredible Shasta. Shasta Mountain Guides takes great pride in providing the highest quality experience for our climbers. We specialize in Mt. Shasta.
- Mt. Shasta Wilderness Avalanche and Climbing Advisory
An excellent resource for anyone who plans to climb Mt. Shasta. The site is maintained by the rangers and provides route advisory, description of accidents on Shasta, links to weather reports and more. In the winter months the weather and avalanche report is updated daily.
- Zeitcam.com
Time-lapse movie of Shasta Cam, as well as other mountains.
- Hotlum-Bolam Ridge to Avalanche Gulch north-south traverse
- Climbing Mt. Shasta 6/23/05 - Trip Report with Pictures
Images
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California Cascades
